Concert at Stefanskirche in Vienna – Christmas 1956

The Austrians were gracious and hospitable to Tom and his friend John as they waited to begin their trip to Canada.

Christmas 

We were fortunate to be in Vienna at Christmas time. Beautiful decorations, gift packed shop windows, Yuletide music, the smell of grilled Wuerstchen(sausages) were enriched by the aroma of Gluehwein (“glow wine” – hot cider with wine), roasted chestnuts and almonds all colored by the rosy cheeks of people radiating anticipation and festivity.

Our highlight was the Messiah concert in Stefanskirche, the famous, historic cathedral in the center of the city, just a few blocks from our hotel. It was awesome in every sense. We attended it with our landlady and her daughter. They topped it off with an invitation for John and me to join them for a delicious Christmas dinner in their home. What an experience, what hospitality! The Austrians were wonderful to us.

Shirt Repair

One day I noticed that my shirt needed some repair. I recalled that I had seen a small sign for a seamstress at the door of an old apartment house nearby. I took the shirt to the little lady working in a very modest room. The room was equipped with her foot-operated sewing machine, a workbench, and other essential tools of her trade. A few plants decorated the windowsill of the small window facing the back of another building.

She took my shirt and told me to pick it up in two days. When I inquired about the estimated price, she said it would be modest and I will be satisfied.

When I returned, the shirt was fixed beautifully. When I asked what I owed her she said, “Take it as my small contribution to the Hungarians’ sacrifice for the cause of freedom.”

I was deeply touched, and insisted I pay at least a reduced price. She asked me not to hurt her. It was obvious that she had very little, so her gift was a significant one.

Chestnuts

I love roasted chestnuts. Whenever I stop in a city where they are sold, I follow the smell and tank up on them. It is a very popular item in Vienna in the winter. They were sold by little old ladies who had permission to set up their circular charcoal stoves with perforated tops at many spots in the city.

One day I decided to take the plunge into the expense. I paid for ten chestnuts. The little lady kept filling the triangular paper bag. When she went beyond ten, I reminded her that I had paid for ten only. “Never mind,” she said, “I can see from looking at your coat where you came from – just take it as a little special gift from an Austrian.”